A Plea For Christchurch

It had been 25 years since I visited New Zealand (my, how time flies), and I have been eager to make another visit since then. My memories were of beautiful countryside, coastlines and extremely hospitable residents. We spent quite a bit of time driving through both islands of the country, and I still have “picture postcard” moments from that trip…horseback riding outside of Queenstown to a location that gave me a 360° view of snow capped mountains. There was also the time I worked on a lamb/cattle farm during lambing season; saving lives of newborn lambs and feeding the cattle on the “back forty.” The “back forty” eventually became the set of Hobbiton for the Hobbit films and is now a tourist attraction.

Another memory is of Christchurch. It was different. People used to say that Christchurch was more “British” than anywhere in the UK. I got it. It felt historical and quaint. I admired the beautiful old structures that were revered by the people of Christchurch and visitors, alike; especially the cathedral. It was still an active religious center, and you had an immediate sense of reverence when you entered. I took my photos and enjoyed the fine Kiwi hospitality and food.

Apparently, a lot changed in the days after I left. Christchurch had become such a popular tourist destination than more hotels sprung up…tall glass and steel structures that, in no way, complemented the calm and quaint ambiance of the Cathedral Square. Office buildings and malls popped up. And then, even all of that changed.

Five years ago, Christchurch was hit by a devastating earthquake. The beautiful old structures and even the new were no match for the shaking of the earth. I remember hearing about the cathedral being badly damaged, and it saddened me deeply. After that, I didn’t give it much mind. Living in California, you figure that people dig out, recoup and rebuild.

My visit in December to Christchurch was an absolute shock. The city is still in shambles. The high-rise hotels are left abandoned and boarded up, and graffiti is everywhere. Recovery efforts look like they have been at a standstill for years. The malls have very few businesses functioning today…and they greatly depend on tourism. It was even difficult to find a place to eat. I literally walked around in shock.

My breaking point came when I visited the cathedral. It was the last stop on my photo shoot of the Christchurch devastation. As I stood in a small area that had been set aside for photos, I suddenly couldn’t see through my lens. My eyes had teared up, and I fought back sobs. As I turned to walk away, I noticed that everyone else around me was in the same condition. People were crying. The majestic cathedral was badly crippled and bolstered to keep it from caving in. Statues were beginning to disappear in weeds. The heart of the city looked like it was dying.

We finally managed to find a place (outside of our hotel) to eat. We spoke with the General Manager of the restaurant, and he gave us some explanation and some hope. He encouragingly told us that things were getting better. When the earthquake hit, there were around 450,000 people living in the Christchurch area. Immediately after the quake, a mass exodus left only 125,000 to deal with the rebuilding. He also noted that right after their quake, Japan had their huge tsunami that affected the nuclear plant. Suddenly, world relief was diverted to Japan. New Zealand was forgotten.

He has now managed to set up 3 restaurants in an alley amidst empty buildings. He explained that the population has double to around 250,000, and the city council just approved the renovation of the heart of the city…the cathedral. It is still going to be a long haul. One of the few buildings that seemed untouched was the Old Government Building, directly across from the cathedral. It now is home to the Heritage Christchurch Hotel, a beautiful high-end restaurant and a fun pub known as the O.G.B. Bar & Café.

Hope abounds, but they need tourists. If you are in New Zealand, please stop in Christchurch to say hello to the locals, show your respects and spend some money. Apparently, they have now passed an ordinance that buildings cannot be over 5 stories high. Fingers crossed that this lovely city will someday be restored.