Memory Lane -
Royal Clipper Cruise
An Evening of the Milky Way, the Meteor Shower and the Mediterranean
I never take my ability to explore the world for granted. In fact, I often feel privileged that I have what many call a “dream job,” especially when I can determine my own itineraries and experiences. I have visited every continent on earth, and have witnessed the array of cultures, life and nature. This trip was special…
While many of my travels require sailing (or cruising, as some may say), I always make sure to include land travel at the beginning and end of my sailing excursions. This was no exception. However, I had a dream experience. Sailing the Mediterranean on a square sail ship. In fact, the Royal Clipper is the only 5-masted sail ship in the world, and only the second EVER in existence.
When I discovered the Royal Clipper, I asked my travel agent to see if I could get aboard for a particular trip. There was only one room left…the Admiral’s Suite. I gladly accepted! The thought of sailing from Venice to Croatia, Montenegro, Greek Isles, several Italian islands and ending up in Rome via this magnificent vessel gave me great anticipation and excitement. This also meant that I could spend more time in Florence and Venice before setting sail. It also meant a special stay in Rome to wind down a beautiful experience.
Follow along as I take you on this special journey…
TUSCANY
I love Tuscany. In fact, I have visited that region more than any other place on earth. So, my excitement about being in the land of sunflowers was tamped, a bit, by a crazy heat wave in Europe. It hovered around 100 degrees almost every day; but, that didn’t stop my craving to take in everything I could. It meant rising early to explore the city, relaxing in air conditioning during the heat and then back out later in the evening to enjoy the cooler respite and revelry of the people.
Recommendations:
Restaurants: Antico Ristorante Sasso di Dante
Hotel: Loggiato dei Serviti
Services: Daytrip
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I, once again, stayed at Loggiato dei Serviti in Florence; a former monastery and where Leonardo de Vinci lived in the top apartment (which I have stayed in before!). It is a great location (only 4 blocks from the Duomo); and the staff is charming, and the rooms are spacious and accommodating.
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I scheduled DayTrip (mydaytrip.com) to guide me around the Tuscan region. Eight hours in the crazy heat was rough on my driver, but he did not disappoint. What I love about these DayTrip guides is that they translate for you and take you places and explain history and geography that you never would have considered. The day included driving through the Chianti region, a visit to Monteriggioni (an inspiration for Dante), the quaint Colle Val d’Elsa and a final (and my first) visit to San Gimignano. [Florence and Siena are still my favorites, but the entire region is lovely and inviting.]
The rest of my time during this stay was spent relaxing and photographing in a city I already loved.
Of course, it is hard to visit Venice and not make the trek to Harry’s, the source of the Bellini. I had tried to visit Harry’s on two other occasions, but the first time it was way too crowded, and the second time a very snobby matre’ d informed us that we were not dressed appropriately. Soooo, this time we dressed accordingly and walked into a very quiet and CASUAL Harry’s. (Apparently, they have adjusted their dress code.). This time, the staff were friendly, but expect to spend as much for a bellini as you would for a meal at another café. Nonetheless, I ran my tab and felt “mission accomplished.”
As soon as I arrive in Venice and have checked in and dropped my luggage, I head straight to the American Café. It is in a prime location at San Marcos square overlooking the Grand Canal. I love watching the gondoliers and their fare and all the shoppers from the street vendors pass by. It is one of the best “people watching” spots in the world. You will witness a little bit of everything.
VENICE
This is another city I love and with which I am familiar. These locations tend to be more relaxing because you don’t feel like a tourist. You know how to get around, where to eat and who to visit. The heat wave continues, and the humidity increases; but, that didn’t slow me down. Because I could relax, I was able to capture some special photographs that represent the postcards in my own mind. I hope you enjoy them…
Recommendations:
Restaurants: le Café, Ristorante da Raffaele, Harry’s, The American Cafe
Hotel: Hotel Ala
I always stay at the Hotel Ala. It is in a fantastic location…not far from San Marcos Square and very close to the Stefano Square where you are more likely to meet locals, and the prices are more reasonable (it’s all relative). The quaint bar in Hotel Ala, Tarnowska’s American Bar, is where you are likely to meet the locals. It is on the path from the tourist area to where the locals actually live.
In Stefan Square, we always enjoy a good meal at le Café. This trip introduced me to a new restaurant to which I know I will return…Ristorante da Raffaele. It is situated on one of the main canals where can watch the travelers assuring their gondola experience. What is truly charming (besides the food and staff) is that all the gondoliers pass by singing and always call out to one of the waiters who has been with the restaurant for decades. Needless to say, everyone is always smiling!
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THE ROYAL CLIPPER
The moment has arrived! I always look forward to embarking on my next adventure; but, this time, I was downright excited! To sail on a stunning and comfortable sail ship that is the only 5-masted in the world, visit numerous Mediterranean isles, Croatia, Montenegro, Capri, Sicily and Ponza, was an adventure I had planned for well over a year. The moment was here, and I couldn’t wait until conditions were conducive to hoisting sails and turning off the engines… hearing nothing but the wind and enjoying the sea—and I was in for an experience that will forever reign in my memory.
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As we set sail from one of our destinations, the conditions were perfect. As we departed the harbor, the sails were released, this ship broadcasted classical music, the sails were lit with an array of colors, the engines were turned off, and we returned to the open sea with only wind power. It was mesmerizing. Many of the passengers retreated after the set sail; but, a few of us stayed “up top.” Nothing but the sea, the wind and the Milky Way. The wind from the sea provided a break from the intense daytime heat, and star gazing had never felt so good. Then suddenly, meteors began streaking through the sky. Imagine…you’re SAILING in the Mediterranean, hair flowing in the wind, being enthralled with the millions of stars in the sky, and then the universe gives you a firework’s display. It just might be the most memorable moment, not just in my travels, but in my life.
Now…on to our destinations:
CROATIA
I knew Croatia was going to be beautiful for 4 reasons: 1) Friends of mine are from Croatia, and they consistently express their admiration for the beauty of their homeland, 2) other travelers talk about the beauty of Croatia, 3) I had traversed through a neighboring country, Slovenia, which was stunningly beautiful and 4) the lines at the ferry terminal in Venice to Croatia were staggeringly long; the locals were anxious to enjoy Croatia. Our first stop was Hvar…
Hvar: Hvar is one of those dream locations that, once you have arrived, you are already planning on visiting again…just don’t go on the weekends! It is a charming and lovely town nestled in a great harbor. The water is crystal clear, the hills are populated with quaint inns, restaurants and shops, and the people are quite hospitable.
Recommendations:
Restaurant: Kod Kapetana
I ventured out of the main area, but stayed close to the water (it was still 100 degrees). I ran across a great little restaurant that looked across the harbor at the main area of Hvar, and it was perfect. The staff were as delightful as the food.
Travel Tip 1:
With few exceptions, the cost of food and beverage are higher at the point of entry into a town or city. Explore deeper, and you can find charming and quaint cafes (or bars) with more “palatable” prices.
Travel Tip 2:
Keep in mind that August is usually the month that Europeans (especially Italians) take holiday. You can expect to find these lovely destinations much more crowded at that time of year.
Rovinj:
Rovinj is another quaint area in Croatia where Europeans take holiday. Courtyards, bouganvillea, hills and crystal clear water await your visit. While Rovinj was not as alluring as Hvar, you will find it quieter and still very charming.
Dubrovnik: Dubrovnik is a famously walled city. In fact, EVERYONE wants to walk the wall. Let me just say that after 8 days of temperatures hovering around 100, I didn’t feel like walking the wall with hundreds of other people. I found my view another way. I did explore the lovely city by wandering the hills and came across a fabulous restaurant, Nautika, nestled in the bluffs overlooking the sea. People were swimming below from the rocks and it was a completely relaxing and enjoyable experience. I always scout out moments of history, geography or architecture, but every now and then, you need to relax and take it all in. After this lovely break, I wandered some more and greatly appreciated the water source in the square where I could soak my scarf in the cool water and wrap it around my neck. I had great company with that same idea. Upon wandering back toward our ship, I discovered an Irish Pub (always a quest on my journeys), Irish Pub Karaka. Had a fun conversation with other visitors and then, back toward the harbor. After some sumptuous seafood at Poklisar (where I think I moaned through the entire meal) and some shopping, I was ready to return to my Admiral’s Suite.
By the way, Dubrovnik...thank you for the fireworks sendoff!
Restaurants: Nautika, Irish Pub Karaka, Poklisar
Montenegro – Kotor: We traversed through a very narrow channel at 5:00 a.m. into a magnificent harbor. My fellow passenger commented “This has to be the most lovely city you have never heard of.” He was right. Kotor was a complete surprise. I had also heard about the beauty of Montenegro but did not anticipate the unmitigated charm of this town. It was another moment where you begin to plan a future stay. It didn’t hurt, being an ardent animal lover, that Kotor is renowned for its cats. They are everywhere and feral, and they are well cared for, revered and healthy. We wandered around, bought some antique treasures and relaxed at the Harbour Pub where they treated us like royalty. (Prices here were almost ½ of those at the entrance to the city.)
Restaurant: Harbour Pub
Next Stop…the Greek Isle of Corfu:
Corfu: Expectations can almost ruin a visit. Corfu was one of those for me. I expected the stunning whitewashed buildings and walkways of the Greek Isles (like Santorini and Mykonos), but Corfu is very different. I was surprised by Roman architecture on this island. Not that anything is wrong with Roman architecture, but when you are expecting a different experience, there is a bit of a let down. Where I wasn’t let down was the remarkable views of the Ionian Sea from Corfu…postcard scenery and beautiful beaches made up for the architecture. This was one time I wished I had brought my swimsuit (because it was still 100 degrees!).
It was now time for a couple days of enjoying just the sea, and I made the most of it. Having met lovely new friends from England and Portugal, we spent our time enjoying the wind, climbing to the Crow’s Nest, and eating and drinking our way through the Mediterranean on our way to some amazing islands off the tip of Italy.
Sicily: What a glorious day in a vibrant town of Taormina, Sicily. The views are spectacular and the town is far from dull; rife with color, food and mementos. It was a relaxed day allowing my eyes to take in all of the culture and robustness of this town perched high on a hill.
Sorrento / Capri: Since I had already spent quality time in Sorrento on another trip, I decided to take the ferry over to the island of Capri. Wow! Capri is almost like two different cities. The part located at the harbor level is inviting and fun. Then you take the tram up the hill. You are initially hit with the phenominal views and then the phenominal wealth. It’s all about money. Large families with lots of money, hotels that require lots of money, restaurants that want your money and shops that would rival Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. $$$$ Don’t get me wrong, I enjoyed rubbing elbows with people who could vacation in such a lush location, and I enjoyed my favorite new & refreshing drink, the Hugo. But, a trip back down the tram to where the regular folk hang out proved to be downright fun. However, it was August, it was HOT and it was crowded. Back to my Admiral’s Suite!
Ponza: I have three words for the\is lovely island…YOU MUST GO! It is adorable, quaint, slow-paced, charming, reasonably priced…need I go on? As you arrive, you witness a mesmerizing array of pastel-colored buildings on the hillsides. There are plenty of markets, and it is not lacking for swimming and sunbathing areas. I spent a wonderful relaxing time in Ponza, and I would go back in a heartbeat.
Special Mention—There are many people who must collaborate and manage the operations of the Royal Clipper. However, there is one person who is critical to maintain the sails; the most alluring aspect of this ship. Five masts of sails are a big responsibility, and one man manages it with great aplomb…his name is Oscar. I learned of Oscar’s critical skills while watching a documentary, and I was thrilled to not only meet him but to be able to now call him “friend.”
Speaking of friends…every journey I make on a ship grants me new friendships from all over the world. This was no exception, and the time together on this particular ship was even more intimate, so friendships flourished. So, here is to Fiona & Paddy, Mark & Jo, Oscar and my travel companion, Bruce. You made this trip special.
Now, on to Rome…
We Are
The World
Rome: My magical sailing tour may have been winding down, but I was still going to have a little time in Rome to relax before the long trip home. Once again, I looked to DayTrip for a private transfer from the ship into Rome, with a stop at the Santa Severa Castle. After a little exploration along the coast near Civitavecchia, I headed on into Rome to check into the Betojja Mediterraneo hotel. This hotel is situated at the top of the tallest hill in Rome. When I arrived, I was asked if I could wait. Even though it was early, they had a room they could make available to me. It was very much worth the small wait to walk into their large suite that had a full deck patio that overlooks Rome; the only room in the hotel that had this splendid amenity. This hotel also has a rooftop restaurant where the food is amazing, the staff are friendly, and the view and the sunsets are spectacular. The location is also premier; close enough to special sights and unique neighborhoods, yet located outside the crazy bustle of tourists.
Delizie & Sapori Gestioni Restaurant (not far from the Colosseum).
Travel Tip 3:
When you check in for your flights, look to see if they are offering special upgrade fares to Business or First Class. Sometimes you can get a deal that makes your trip feel like a leisurely walk in the park. (Even if you don't see it online, be sure to ask at check-in for any deals.)
KLM: KLM offered us an upgrade to Business Class for a nominal amount (it's all relative). We gladly accepted the offer and flew back from Rome in comfort with exceptional food, sleeping quarters, onboard entertainment and bottomless drinks. This was my first time flying with them, and I certainly look forward to future transport. Their service was superb. I put it right up there with Emirates!
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